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😍 5/5 - Using native ingredients and only the power of fire to cook
By 👻 @Alexander B., 01/15/2020 3:00 am
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Using native ingredients and only the power of fire to cook your food, Ekstedt makes a number of statements simply by existing. Your entire meal will be made in a kitchen entirely lacking in electricity and gas, and instead cooked by the equivalent of a very professional camp fire. The menu is on the plate as you're seated listing the various tasting menu items you'll be receiving along with a brief explanation of the ethos of the restaurant. The interior is tastefully rustic, with re bar on the ceiling and minimalist concrete and wood decoration with various metal cooking utensils hanging from the walls. It definitely feels like a departure from the upscale shopping area in which it is located (which is just a few blocks from Frantzen, Gastrologik, and other Swedish restaurant titans). I believe we opted for the wine pairing, but cannot recall any specific notably good wine beyond my first time introduction to "orange wine" via Burja Estates from Slovenia. The tasting menu is split between 4 and 6 courses (I went with 6), though based upon my photos, I actually got closer to 14 courses, with all the snacks, munchies, and extra bites that came out in addition to your main courses. The meal began with a smoked tomato, unveiled at your seat with the smoke wafting from underneath it's cloche, and stuffed with a cream cheese like stuffing that enhanced and retained the smokey flavor. This was followed by a horseradish heavy bite and I believe a smoked calamari, served on a leaf that should be folded into a taco-like shape to eat. The last of the "bites" was a literal spoonful of roe, cream and greens. The first larger course was a beautifully green and earthy soup with bright orange squash flowers for a pop of color. Right after this course, you're invited to take a look at this kitchen, which is unlike any other kitchen you've ever seen. Everything is churning along like you'd expect to see in any fine-dining kitchen, but all of its before open flames. You get to meet some of the line cooks making your meal that evening, and we were shown how our oysters were cooked, using a metal funnel filled with melting beef fat, dripped over the oysters and flames igniting the melted fat, flaring up around the shell while your oyster reaches the perfect temperature. Back at my seat, we enjoyed a roe heavy course followed by the customary mid meal bread and butter. A blackened scallop with chanterelles (girolles) and sugar kelp was next up, which bridged the gap between what is obviously a land based cooking technique (the fire and smoke and whatnot) with the seafood-y taste of scallops and kelp. A fish and a red meat main were served, the first consisting of turbot (I think) was expertly crisped skin that makes you forget this was done at the equivalent of a camp fire. The lamb course that followed, with artichokes and beats was rich, gamey, and delicious, and introduced a heavier, more filling course to ensure you leave full. A searing hot bowl is served table side, which adds another fun, performative element to the meal. Desserts were a mixture of a sponge cake, a kind of ice cream, and cloudberries and pancakes (cloudberries being a highly sought after and difficult to obtain berry from the northern reaches of Sweden, similar i taste to a raspberry).Ultimately, Ekstedt is a very unique dining experience worth trying. Compared to the other fine dining restaurants Stockholm has to offer, Ekstedt most notably emphasizes their unique cooking techniques rather than any one truly amazing course, but the preparation is so awesome its easy to forget its all made without the precision of electric or as cooking. Definitely an experience with having in Stockholm that will certainly make you feel as if you're completely inept with a camp fire.
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