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🤢 2/5 - Pasta Bar signals the long overdue death of the tasting
By 👻 @Andrew F., 01/26/2023 3:00 am
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Pasta Bar signals the long overdue death of the tasting menu. It is the perfect illustration of how high quality ingredients, some random ideas, and a profusion pretension can come together to make a thoroughly unpleasant evening. Pasta Bar also costs a fortune. Dinner there began by pressing a buzzer and waiting outside a nondescript door in an Encino mini-mall. Inside, we were seated at a small bar and then charmlessly interrogated about our dietary restrictions. We were given a 'complimentary cocktail' which is an amusing concept considering we ended up paying $800 for a meal for two. Then we waited for a long time. After having been reminded numerous times to be there at exactly 7pm, finally, at 7:30 another charmless attendant stepped in the bar and yelled at the top of his lungs that it's time for all 8 of us to move into the actual Pasta Bar ---which looks like the set from Chopped. Actually the whole dinner felt like being on Chopped: stressful. There is no wine list. We were offered two options. A 'standard' wine pairing at $145 and the 'Sommelier' paring at $225. This on top of dinner being $200 a head. So, to put things into perspective, the standard wine pairing for one is what dinner for two could cost at a nice restaurant down the street. And all of this is communicated by someone yelling at all of us, like we're in line at a middle school cafeteria. The sommelier was kind and the wines were (mostly) delicious but the sommelier had a rather strange habit of loudly describing the taste of every wine at great length before we could even sip it. Please let us decide on our own if it evokes butterscotch and damp leather. And please stop yelling. To distract ourselves from the slow motion misery, we watched the 7 all-white all-cisgender-male staff work furiously on 8 tiny plates. How's the food, you might ask? It's good. But actually I don't remember much of it. There was beef carpaccio in ponzu; there were tiny gnocchi with shrimp: there was duck and.... two bites of 13 different things. My stomach goes into shock at a tasting menu. The best degustation restaurants, like Guy Savoy in Paris, offer 5 courses at the most. Last night we watched multiple dishes appear with a sense of dread, hoping that each would be the last. By the way, there was very little pasta. I had imagined it would be a carb-fest, but no. This is only a mishmash of things, with no idea at its core. Except yelling. Pasta Bar is modeled on Minibar, Jose Andres' brilliant 12-seat restaurant that opened in DC in 2003. But Minibar is fun. The staff are joyous and the food is playful and sensuous. For about a little more money you could fly to DC and go to Minibar. I would suggest that.
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