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London's Best Restaurants that are most frequently booked by customers of Medlar London
😍 5/5 - The joyous craft of cooking
By 👻 @thoughtfuldiner, 07/09/2022 3:00 am
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Medlar is the place for when the London food lover is in the mood neither for gimmicks and jarring novelties on the one hand, nor for pomposity on the other, but just for a mature cuisine of simply good ingredients, cooked with confidence and immaculate technique. I love liver, but I find poor or poorly cooked liver revolting. I rarely order it, and only in a few trusted restaurants. Medlar belongs to this elite. This time again my trust was well placed: the piece of lovely meat was perfectly grilled, coming with a wealth of aptly chosen garnishes: new season garlic, Tropea onion, chard, potato galette, all suffused in a very light vinegary sharpness. Equally delicious and precisely cooked was another main of stuffed Guinea Fowl, again enriched by a treasure-trove of garnishes (a vegetarian dish in themselves): yellow wax beans (me neither: think "yellow green beans"), ricotta dumplings, salsa verde, artichokes and (I think) parsnip puree. The starters could not have been more Summery and refreshing. One was a chilled courgette and chervil soup with fresh almonds, thin apple slices and home smoked mackerel rillette on toast, this last item in truth possibly the only dud of the day, as it did not deliver on intensity of taste. The other starter on the other hand was simply perfect: a tartare of sea trout tartare with pea and broad bean gazpacho and oyster beignet. A dessert of Apricot beignet with roast apricots, honey, toasted flaked almonds and crème fraiche ice cream was good, and the selection of cheeses from which we chose was interesting, the cheeses in excellent form. Prices at lunch are very reasonable: currently 45 for 3 courses (small supplement for cheeses instead of dessert), but be prepared to pay a substantial premium for dinner. Reasonably priced wine list too. Beside quality, to note a sense of generosity, in portions and other details. Service (this time mostly Italian) was super-efficient and polite yet discreet and not over-eager to please. In sum, Medlar is a study in the sheer craft of cooking with joy, never gimmicky but also never even getting close to banality. Any young chef with any kind of ambition should eat here at least once, learn and remember.
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